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Ionides, Elfrida ( néeBird, wife of Luke Ionides; 1828- 1934) 299- 302, 327 Isaac, Major Samuel ( 1812- 86) 199 Isabella II of Spain ( 1830- 1904) 82- 3, 93, 104- 5 Ismail Pasha ( 1830- 95, Khedive and Viceroy of Egypt 1863- 79) 386 Italy, Unification of 139, 268- 9, 275, 277- 8,376, 400, 402, 411, 422, 426 ivory 119, 126- 7, 134- 5, 157, 160- 61, 167, 175, 180, 196, 257, 307, 441, 484, 493, 496- 7, 499, 502 carving in Erbach- im- Odenwald 161, 257, 484, 496- 7 imitation 209 Jacobite Rebellion 34 Jacoby, Julius 92, 95 Jacques ( of Dublin) 277 Jahn & Bolin 255; see alsoBolin, Edward James, Henry ( 1843- 1916) 498 Jameson, Anna ( 1794- 1860) 412 Jamieson, Charles ( of Inverness) 459 Japanese jewellery and objects 130, 219- 20, 263, 284, 299, 308- 10 style 191- 2, 215- 16, 274, 289, 308- 15 Jay's General Mourning Warehouse 121, 125 Jeffreys, John 194, 237, 277 jet 22, 58, 73, 103, 118- 21, 124- 7, 147, 160, 195- 6, 258, 277, 298, 468, 487 ' French Jet' 59, 119- 22, 124- 5, 279 imitation jet ( rubber or composition) 207- 8 Joan of Arc 356 Johnson, Joseph and Edmond 450, 453 Johnson, Thomas 326 Jones, Owen ( 1809- 74) 295, 304- 5, 358, 380 Jones, Samuel 316- 17 Jones, William 154, 162 Joseph, B. H. & Co. 198 Josephine, Empress ( wife of Napoléon I of France; 1763- 1814) 467 jubilees 16, 18, 36, 45, 76- 7, 83, 87, 164, 190 Julienne, Eugène ( 1800- 74) 361 Kämmerer & Zeftigen 254 Karim, Hafiz Abdul (' The Munshi', 1863?- 1909) 73 Karim, Hourmet Abdul 73 Kean, Charles ( 1811?- 68) 338, 387- 8 Kemble, Charles ( 1775- 1854) 338 Kemble, Fanny ( 1809- 93) 412 Kent, Princess Victoria of Saxe- Coburg, Duchess of ( 1786- 1861) 18, 21- 2, 31, 45, 54- 6, 58, 66, 79, 122 Khan, Prince Muhammad Akbar ( d. 1848) 297 Khedive of Egypt seeIsmail Pasha Khlebnikoff ( of Moscow) 252 King, Charles William ( 1818- 88) 154- 6, 471- 2, 490 Kipling, John Lockwood ( 1837- 1911) 295 Kirby & Bunn 241 Kitching, Joseph 37, 40, 44 Kitching & Abud 37, 159 Kitz, Carl Jacob 56, 96, 106 Klagmann, Jean- Baptiste- Jules ( 1810- 67) 354 Kleeberg, August 370- 1 Knight, Frederick ( fl. 1825- 1843) 158 Köchert & Sohn 280, 370 Koh- i- Noor diamond 43, 46- 9, 52- 3, 72, 75- 6, 84, 105- 6, 154- 5, 181, 253, 259- 65 kokoshnik 65, 68, 71, 225 Kollin, Erik ( 1836- 1901) 436 Kossuth, Marx & Co. ( of New York) 146 Kramer, François 85 Krumbügel, Otto 281 Kunz, George Frederick ( 1856- 1932) 461 Lahore treasury 47, 75, 76, 262, 265 Lalique, René ( 1860- 1945) 366 Lami, Eugène ( 1800- 90) 36, 38 Landseer, Sir Edwin ( 1803- 73) 34, 338 Lane, Edward William ( 1801- 76) 304 Lane, Richard James ( 1800- 72) 17, 20 Langtry, Lillie ( Emilie Charlotte, néeLe Breton, 1853- 1929) 72, 90- 91, 234, 386 Lankester, Sir Edwin Ray ( 1847- 1929) 230, 236 Lassus, J. B. A. ( 1807- 57) 356 Laurence, Samuel ( 1812- 84) 489 ' lava' seecameos, ' lava' Lawrence, Colonel and Mrs Bigelow 501 Layard, Austen Henry ( 1817- 94) 49, 176, 269- 70, 275, 277- 8, 286, 321- 2, 387- 9, 391, 394- 7, 403- 4, 415, 428- 9 Layard, Lady ( Mary Enid Evelyn, néeGuest, 1844- 1912) 104, 131, 176, 193, 245, 322- 3, 326, 394- 6, 428- 9, 458, 524 ( n. 67) Lebas, Paul Victor ( fl. 1851- 76) 5, 466, 469- 70 Leech, John ( 1817- 64) 115- 16, 309 Lefournier, Louis- August- Hippolyte ( 1802- 59) 359- 61 Legrand, Paul 291 Lehmann, Rudolf ( 1819- 1905) 129 Lehzen, Baroness ( 1784- 1870) 165 Leighton, Sir Frederic ( 1830- 96) 327, 413, 493 Leighton, John (' Luke Limner', 1822- 1912) 279 Lemant ( cameo- cutter) 465 Lemon, Mark ( 1809- 70) 15 Lemonnier, Gabriel 48, 82, 84- 5, 92, 95, 104- 5, 166, 255, 382 Lennox, Lord George ( brother of Duke of Richmond) 57 Leonardo Da Vinci ( 1452- 1519) 467 Leopold, Prince, Duke of Albany ( 1853- 84) 42, 57, 74, 78, 352 Leopold of Saxe- Coburg, King of the Belgians ( 1790- 1865) 22, 34, 60, 143 Lepec, Charles ( 1830-? after 1888) 101, 209, 274, 278, 361, 383 Leroy ( jeweller) 256 Leslie, Charles Robert ( 1794- 1859) 24 Leslie, George Dunlop ( 1835- 1921) 187 Lesseps, Ferdinand de ( 1805- 94) 381 Lessing, Julius ( 1843- 1908) 367 Le Turcq, Georges 217 Leuchtenberg, Amélie de ( néede Beauharnais, wife of Pedro I of Brazil; 1812- 73) 332- 3 Leviny, Ernest ( 1818- 1905) 339- 40 Levitsky, Sergey Lvovich ( 1818- 98) 64 Levysohn ( of Copenhagen) 59 Lewes, George ( 1817- 78) 490 Liberty's 128- 9, 299- 300, 302, 310, 315, 383, 524 ( n. 67) Liénard, Michel 354 Lieven, Princess Dorothea von Benkendorff ( 1784- 1857) 38 Lind, Jenny ( Johanna Maria, Madame Goldschmidt, 1820- 87) 16 Linklater, Elizabeth 233 Linnet, John 44 Liszt, Franz ( 1811- 86) 87, 265 Livingston family 502- 3 Lloyd, Arthur ( 1839- 1904) 214- 15 Loeser, Mathilde 113- 14 Loeuillard, Octave 172, 286 Londesborough, William Henry Forester, 1st Earl of ( 1834- 1900) 380 London, Museum of 26, 148, 386, 493 London & Ryder 60, 67, 264- 5, 347, 349 London Stereoscopic Company 61 Londonderry, Frances Anne, Marchioness of ( 1800- 65) 34, 140 Londos & Co. 310 Long, Edwin ( 1829- 91) 383- 4 Lorne, Brooch of 67, 455- 6 Lorne, John Sutherland Campbell, Marquess of, later 9th Duke of Argyll ( 1845- 1914) 43, 66- 7, 413, 436, 455- 6 Louis, Prince of Hesse, later Grand Duke of Hesse- Darmstadt ( 1837- 92) 62, 73, 344- 5 Louis IX of France ( 1214- 70) 356 Louis XV ( 1710- 74) 95 Louis XVI ( 1754- 93) 49, 95 style 94- 5, 335 Louise, Princess, Marchioness of Lorne, later Duchess of Argyll ( 1848- 1939) 40, 43, 66- 7, 348- 9, 413, 430, 436, 456- 8, 486 Louise, Princess of Hesse- Cassel, later Queen Louise of Denmark ( 1817- 98) 58, 438 Louise of the Netherlands, Queen of Sweden ( wife of Charles XV; 1828- 71) 82 Louise d'Orléans, Queen of the Belgians ( daughter of Louis- Philippe; 1812- 50) 34, 525 ( n. 33) Louis- Philippe, King of the French ( 1773- 1850) 23, 34, 38, 305, 356, 388 Louvre, Musée du 95, 97, 275, 332, 334, 358, 361- 2, 380, 387- 8, 473 Low & Co. 298 Lowell, James Russell ( 1819- 91) 412 Lucy, Mary Elizabeth, of Charlecote ( wife of George Lucy; 1803- 89), 160, 226 Ludwig I of Bavaria ( 1786- 1868) 334- 5 Ludwig II of Bavaria ( 1845- 86) 217 Lutherwedding rings 491 Luthmer, Ferdinand ( 1842- 1921) 368- 9, 372 Luynes, Honoré Théodoric Paul Joseph d'Albert, Duc de ( 1802- 67) 525 ( n. 7), 526 ( n. 42) Lyttelton, Lucy, later Lady Frederick Cavendish ( 1841- 1925) 57- 8, 103, 162- 3, 165 Lyttelton, Sarah, Lady ( néeSpencer, 1787- 1870) 28, 57 Macdonald, Flora ( 1722- 90) 152- 3 McIan, Robert Ronald ( 1803- 56) 455 Mackay, John William ( 1831- 1902) and his wife, Marie Louise 68 Maclise, Daniel ( 1806- 70) 135, 257, 339 Macready, William ( 1793- 1873) 152- 3 Mahmúd II, Sultan ( 1785- 1839) 27 mail ordering 7, 194- 5, 297- 8 Mallet, Marie ( néeAdeane), Maid- of- Honour to Queen Victoria 39, 73 Maratta ( Maratti), Carlo ( 1625- 1713) 37 Marcello seeCastiglione- Colonna Marchant, Nathaniel ( 1739- 1816) 468, 472- 3 Marchesini, Niccola 322, 422 Margarete, Princess, Archduchess of Austria, later Princess von Thurn und Taxis 95 Margarete, Princess of Prussia ( daughter of Crown Princess Victoria; 1872- 1954) 417 Margherita of Savoy, Queen Consort ( wife of Umberto I of Italy; 1851- 1926) 82- 3, 417 Maria Cristina of Austria ( 2nd wife of Alfonso II of Spain; 1858- 1929) 360 Maria Pia of Savoy ( daughter of Vittorio Emanuele II, wife of Luis I of Portugal; 1847- 1911) 415- 16 Marie Alexandrovna ( Mary of Hesse, Empress of Alexander II of Russia; 1824- 80) 70, 71, 208 Marie Alexandrovna, Grand Duchess of Russia ( wife of Alfred, Duke of Edinburgh; 1853- 1920) 68 Marie Feodorovna seeDagmar, Princess of Denmark Marie d'Orléans ( daughter of Louis- Philippe; 1813- 39) 356 Marie- Amélie of the Two Sicilies, Queen of the French ( wife of Louis- Philippe; 1782- 1866) 95 Marie- Antoinette, Queen of France ( 1755- 93) 49, 87, 94- 7, 181 Marie- Louise, Empress of the French ( 2nd wife of Napoléon I; 1791- 1847) 48, 84 Marie Louise, Princess of Schleswig- Holstein, granddaughter of Queen Victoria ( 1872- 1957) 29, 38, 57, 78 Mariette, Auguste ( 1821- 81) 380- 81, 386 Marlborough House 36, 70, 72, 170, 229, 234, 386 Marret & Baugrand 49, 122, 256; see alsoBaugrand marriage jewellery 26- 9, 44, 58, 60- 70, 74, 85, 103, 119- 20, 145, 147, 162- 3, 176, 181, 183, 279, 296, 337, 348, 352, 415, 446, 457, 480, 496 Marshall & Co., Edinburgh 392 Martin, Baskett & Martin ( of Cheltenham) 180 Martin, Charles ( 1820- 1906) 24 Martineau, Robert B. ( 1826- 69) 183 Martz ( of Paris) 311 Mary, Princess May of Teck, later Queen Mary ( 1867- 1953) 38, 70, 78, 148, 274 Mary Adelaide of Teck seeCambridge, Mary Adelaide of Teck Mary Queen of Scots 57, 229, 343, 458 Massin, Oscar ( 1829- after 1901) 85, 171, 211, 273, 288- 9, 291, 307 Masson, Frédéric ( 1847- 1923) 85 Massys, Quintin ( 1464/ 5- 1530) 352 Mathilde, Princesse Demidoff ( néeBonaparte, 1820- 1904) 49, 84, 86, 171, 359, 403 Maull & Polyblank 121 Mayall, John Edwin ( 1813- 1901) 45, 56, 61 Mayer, Joseph ( of Liverpool, 1803- 86) 63, 479 Mazzini, Giuseppe ( 1805- 72) 378, 403,424 medallic jewellery 29, 48, 73, 91, 134- 5, 217, 344- 5 Médicis, Marie de ( 1573- 1642) 361, 470- 71 Melbourne, William Lamb, 2nd Viscount ( 1779- 1848) 22, 39 Melillo, Giacinto ( 1846- 1915) 277, 285, 290, 404, 418- 19, 424- 5, 428 Mellerio, Jean- François ( 1815- 86) 412- 13 Mellerio, Maison 82, 83, 142, 265- 6, 273, 280, 284, 382, 400 Mellin, Roland ( 1803- 71) and Otto Roland ( 1834- 1904) 252 men's jewellery 112- 13, 133- 40, 142- 3, 145- 6, 148, 206, 325, 454- 5, 457 Menu, Maison 366 Merrifeld, Mrs Mary P. ( 1804- 89) 103, 129, 328 Metropolitan Museum of Art 285, 314, 435- 6 Metternich, Princesse Pauline ( 1836- 1902) 87, 210 Meyer, Alfred ( 1832- 1904) 362 Michelsen, Anton ( 1809- 77) 438- 40 micromosaics ( glass) 114, 241, 257, 264- 5, 269, 278, 384, 397, 399, 409- 11, 413- 14, 416- 17, 421- 3, 425, 493- 5, 499, 501 Florentine mosaics ( pietre dure) seehardstone millefioriglass 484 Mielich, Hans ( 1516- 73) 367 Mignot, Daniel ( fl. 1593- 6) 365- 6 Millais, Sir John Everett ( 1829- 96) 413 Miller, Felix M. ( 1820- 1908) 481 Miller, Ferdinand von ( 1813- 87) 367 Miller, Fritz von ( 1840- 1921) 369 Millikin & Lawley 205 Mimpriss ( of London) 136, 162 Moberley, Margaret 157 Möllenborg, Gustaf 485 Mommsen, Theodor ( 1817- 1903) 414 550INDEX

Mond, Ludwig ( 1839- 1909) 414 Montesquiou, Comte Robert de ( 1855- 1921) 129 Moore, Edward C. ( 1827- 91) 304 Moore, Thomas ( 1779- 1852) 95, 304 ' Moorish' taste 263, 305- 6 Mordan, Sampson, & Co. 29, 32, 138 Morel, Jean- Valentin ( 1794- 1860) 105, 254, 343, 357, 360- 61 Morel et Duponchel 142, 354 Morgan, Junius S. ( 1813- 90) 92 Morgan, Lady ( Sydney Owenson, 1783?- 1859) 446- 7 Morgan, Maria 501 Morgan & Headley ( of Philadelphia) 283 Morin, Paul 205 Morris, Jane ( néeBurden, 1839- 1914; wife of William Morris, 1834- 96) 129 Morrison, Alfred ( 1821- 97) and Mrs ( 1847- 1933) 274, 278 Mortimer & Hunt 379 ' mosaic gold' 144, 200 mosaics seemicromosaics Moulinie & Legrandroy 502, 504 Moulton, Lillie ( néeGreenough, wife of Charles Moulton; 1844- 1928) 85- 6 mourning dress 18, 22, 39, 55, 57- 60, 72- 8, 83 mourning jewellery 22, 39, 45, 56- 8, 73, 78- 9, 112, 119, 120- 27, 129, 137, 147, 155, 160, 162, 164- 5, 167, 175, 177, 190, 208, 221 Munshi, The seeKarim Murchison, Sir Roderick ( 1792- 1871) 204 Murdock, William ( 1754- 1839) 207 Musée des Arts Décoratifs 166, 218, 379, 384 Muspratt, Richard ( 1822- 95) and his wife, Jane 422 Napier, Sir Robert ( 1810- 90) 198 Napoléon, Eugène Louis, Prince Imperial ( 1856- 79) 203, 432 Napoléon, Joseph Charles Paul, Prince (' Plon- Plon', 1822- 91) 89 Napoléon I, Emperor of the French ( 1769- 1821) 48, 84- 5, 367, 379, 381, 467- 8, 473 Napoléon III, Emperor of the French ( 1808- 73) 47- 52, 74, 83- 5, 87, 91, 113, 115, 140, 143, 145, 205, 328, 362, 376, 402- 3, 405, 426, 470- 71 visit to London 47- 8 Nasr- ed- Din, Shah of Persia ( 1831- 96) 286 National Portrait Gallery 344, 347 Natté, M. & E. 231, 515 ( n. 10) Natural History Museum 155, 227, 481 Naughten, R. ( of Inverness) 465 Neild, John Camden ( 1780- 1852) 58 Neri, Paolo ( 1818- after 1883) 422, 465, 490 Névillé ( Paris) 142- 3, 525 ( n. 3) Newman, Charlotte 413 Newton, Alfred ( 1829- 1907) 230 Nias, Isobel, Lady ( néeLaing, wife of Admiral Sir Joseph Nias KCB) 492- 3 Nicholas I of Russia ( 1796- 1855) 65 Nicholson, Sir Charles ( 1808- 1903) 414 nickel- silver ( German silver) 201- 3 Nicolls, Miss Caroline 235, 254 Nieuwekerke, Alfred- Émilien O'Hara, Comte de ( 1811- 92) 361 Nightingale, Florence ( 1820- 1910) 44, 468 Nitot et fils84, 467 Noble, Richard ( 1828- after 1990) 468 Obry, Hubert ( 1808- 53) 142- 3 Odelli, Antonio ( 1785-? 1869) 411 Offenbach, Jacques ( 1819- 80) 89 Oldfield, Edmund ( 1816- 1902) 428- 9 Olsoufieff, Count Vassili Dimitrievitch ( 1796- 1858) 410 Order of the Garter 25, 27, 31- 2, 34, 38, 41, 48, 60, 72, 76, 79, 124 Order of the Golden Fleece 113 Order of Luise 54 Order of Victoria and Albert 53, 58, 60, 64- 5, 76, 124, 160, 162, 478 Orloff diamond 154- 5 oroide 194, 201 Orr, P., & Sons 298 Orsay, Alfred Guillaume Gabriel, Count d' ( 1801- 52) 133 Ortwein, August ( 1836- 1900) 369 Osborne House 31, 40- 41, 51, 54, 58- 60, 78- 9, 170, 395, 467 Otéro, La Belle ( Carolina Otéro, 1868- 1965) 88, 95 Oudin, Charles 208 oxidized silver 45, 51, 79, 146- 8, 191- 2, 199, 216, 255- 6, 263, 312- 15, 355- 7, 365- 6, 370- 71, 449 Packer, Charles ( b. 1790) 122, 124- 6, 166 Paget, Mrs Arthur ( Minnie Stevens, 1853- 1919) 386 Paget, Walburga, Lady ( néeHohenthal, 1839- 1929) 59, 102, 501 paintings, copies of jewellery depicted in 337, 411 copied in jewellery 467, 498, 502, 504 jewellery symbolism in 152, 181- 7 Païva, Thérèse Lachmann, Comtesse de ( later Gräfin Henckel von Donnersmarck) 89- 90 Palmaroli y Gonzalez, Vicente ( 1834- 96) 176, 395 Palmer, Berthe Honoré, Mrs Potter ( 1849- 1818) 291 Panizzi, Sir Anthony ( 1797- 1879) 531 ( n. 26) Paoletti, Bartolomeo ( 1757- 1834) and Pietro ( 1785- 1844/ 5) 474 Paoli, Xavier 138 Paravagua & Casella 257 Parian porcelain 190, 380- 81, 467, 473, 476, 479, 481 Paris, Comte Henri de ( 1908- 99) 95 Paris Commune 219, 221, 251 Parkes, Alexander ( 1813- 90) 209 Parks, Fanny ( 1794- 1875) 245 Parma, Louise de Bourbon, Duchess of ( 1819- 64) 356, 362 Parris, Edmund Thomas ( 1793- 1873) 23 Partridge, John ( 1790- 1872) 31- 2, 334 Patek Philippe 93 Patti, Adelina ( 1843- 1919) 119, 386 Pattison, Mrs Mark ( néeEmilia Strong, later Lady Dilke, 1840- 1904) 121 Paxton, Sir Joseph ( 1801- 65) 347 Payne, John Howard ( 1791- 1852) 499 Payton Pepper & Co. 148 Pazzaglia, Antonio ( 1736- 1815) 411 Pearl, Cora ( 1835/ 8- 86) 88- 90, 145 ' peasant' or traditional dress 128- 9, 327- 8, 524 ( n. 67) ' peasant' or traditional jewellery 7, 9, 129, 131, 270- 71, 276, 280, 290, 303, 316- 29, 443, 484, 490- 91 pebbles 156, 196, 486- 8; see alsoScotch pebbles Pedro I, Emperor of Brazil ( 1798- 1834) 265 Pedro II, Emperor of Brazil ( 1825- 91) 229 Peirce Dalton 106, 159 Pengelly, William ( 1812- 94) 488 Percival, MacIver 316 Perkins, Edward 500- 1 Perry, T. & J. 317 Petit, Jacob ( 1796- 1868) 354- 5 Petiteau, Eugène 305 Peyster, Frederic de ( 1796- 1882) 502 Philippa of Hainault, Queen ( 1310/ 15- 69) 34- 5, 338 Philippe, Emile 280, 284, 289, 382- 5 Phillips, Robert ( 1810- 81) 67, 88, 101, 193, 240, 242, 257, 266, 268, 274- 5, 297, 299, 321, 344, 352, 377, 380, 383, 394- 5, 404, 413, 427- 30, 432, 436, 441- 3, 473, 479, 497, 511 ( n. 93), 526 ( n. 24) Phillips Brothers & Son 7, 187, 250, 262- 4, 272, 278, 285- 6, 295, 298- 300, 347- 9, 352- 3, 377, 382, 426, 437 Phipps, the Hon. Harriet Lepel ( 1841- 1922) 73 photography in jewellery 45, 54, 56- 7, 76, 78, 162, 164, 192- 3, 515 ( n. 58) Pichler, Luigi ( 1773- 1854) 360, 411, 474 Pidduck & Co., Manchester 392 Pierret, Ernesto ( 1824- 70) 421, 423, 425, 502 pietre dure, seehardstone Pinchbeck, Christopher ( 1669/ 70- 1732) 200 Pingat ( of Paris) 92, 112, 121 Pistrucci, Benedetto ( 1784- 1855) 275, 283, 411, 466, 472, 481, 519 ( n. 144) Pitt diamond 155 Pius IX, Pope 410 Place, Victor ( 1818- 75) 388 plaid seeScottish tartan Planché, James Robinson ( 1796- 1880) 34, 129, 337- 8 platinum 70, 148, 192, 289, 315, 517 ( n. 27) Playfair, Sir Lyon ( 1818- 98) 225 Plimpton, James ( 1828- 1911) 147 Podio, Luigi ( d. 1888) 417 Pollet, Madame 87 Pommayrac, Pierre Paul Emanuel de ( 1807- 80) 85- 6 Popelin, Claudius ( 1825- 92) 395, 362 Portman, Mary Selina Charlotte, Viscountess ( wife of 2nd Viscount Portman; d. 1899) 106 portrait miniatures 26, 32, 37- 8, 45, 51, 62, 74, 76- 7, 97, 144, 162, 296- 7, 464 Poussielgue- Russand, Placide ( 1824- 89) 413 Powell, John Hardman ( 1827- 95) 341 Powers, Hiram ( 1805- 73) 467, 475- 6, 499- 500 Poynter, Sir Edward W. ( 1839- 1919) 302- 3, 413 Pradier, Jean- Jacques ( 1790- 1852) 354 Prince Imperial seeNapoléon, Eugène Louis Proctor & Co. 299 propelling pencil 29, 32, 48, 138, 142, 192 Prussia, Princess of seeAugusta Victoria Pugin, Augustus Welby Northmore ( 1812- 52) and his third wife, Jane Knill 256, 337, 340- 43 Pulitzer, Joseph ( 1847- 1911) and his wife, Kate 92 Punchjewellery 192 Pyke, Lionel and Alfred 197, 205- 6, 277 Rait, D. C. ( of Glasgow) 459 Raphael ( 1483- 1520) 37, 411, 467, 469, 475 Rassam, Hormuzd ( 1826- 1910) 387- 8 Rault, Louis ( 1847- 1903) 214, 527 ( n. 63) Reading, N. C. & Co. 143, 201- 3 Redgrave, Richard ( 1804- 88) 119 Reed, Gideon 362 Rega, Filippo ( 1761- 1833) 283, 519 ( n. 144) registered designs 7, 142, 147- 8, 164, 196, 199, 213, 233- 4, 390- 2, 441, 447- 50, 456- 7 Reid, Sir James ( 1849- 1923) 78 religious jewellery 159, 162, 175, 178- 80, 296, 301, 318, 341- 3, 352- 3, 407, 410- 11, 421, 432, 452, 465- 6, 484, 495 Renaissance style 133, 204, 265- 7, 271, 274, 335, 337, 343- 52, 357- 73, 408, 411 Rettie, M. & Son ( of Aberdeen) 262, 459- 60 reversed crystal intaglios 144- 6, 162, 167, 170, 218, 220- 22, 246, 280, 348 Revoil, Pierre ( 1776- 1842) 362 Reynolds, Sir Joshua ( 1723- 92) 37 Richet, Eugène 273 Richmond, Sir William Blake ( 1842- 1921) 299, 301 Riffault, Charles 97, 518 ( n. 92) Rimmel, Eugène ( 1820- 87) 8, 230, 232 Rinehart, William H. ( 1825- 74) 475, 477 Rivet- Carnac, John Henry ( 1839- 1923) and his wife 295- 6 Roberts, James ( c. 1800- 1867) 38, 51 Roccheggiani, Cesare 423 Rococo revival 170 Ronca, James ( 1826- 1910) 478, 481 Rose, Grace, Lady ( wife of Sir William Anderson Rose, 1820- 81, Lord Mayor of London) 184 Ross, Sir William C. ( 1794- 1860) 32, 54, 454 Rossetti, Dante Gabriel ( 1828- 82) 128- 9, 412 Rossi, Giovanni Battista de ( 1822- 94) 410- 11 Rossini, Gioacchino ( 1792- 1868) 403 Rothschild, Freifrau Mathilde von ( 1832- 1924) 370 Rothschild, Nathan Meyer de ( 1777- 1836) 122 Rothschild family 103 Rouvenat, Léon ( 1809- 74) 172, 256, 273, 284, 286 Rowe, Charles Courtney 201 Rowlands, C., & Son 340, 344 Royal Collection 36, 44- 5, 166, 193, 274, 348 rubber seevulcanite Rudolphi, Frédéric Jules ( 1808- 72) 255- 6, 262- 3, 343, 354, 356 Rundell, Bridge & Co. 22- 3, 25, 27, 29- 30, 32, 36- 7, 333 Ruppenthal ( of Idar- Oberstein) 461 Ruskin, Effie ( néeGray, later Lady Millais, 1828- 97) 39- 40, 492, 496- 7 Ruskin, John ( 1819- 1900) 39- 40, 187, 484, 489, 492, 496 Said Pasha ( 1822- 63, Viceroy of Egypt 1854- 63) 273, 380 Saint- Gaudens, Augustus ( 1848- 1907) 475 Sala, George Augustus ( 1828- 95) 51, 242, 250, 273, 275- 6, 289, 319, 352 Salisbury, Robert Cecil, 3rd Marquess of ( 1830- 1903) 17 Salviati & Company 278 Salvo ( jeweller) 425 Sambourne, Linley ( 1844- 1910) 115, 147- 8, 233 Sanderson ( of Edinburgh) 486 Sandoz, Gustave ( 1836- 91) 291 Sandys, Emma ( 1847- 77) 237, 239 Sandys, Frederick ( 1829- 1904) 131, 135, 184- 5 Sargent, John Singer ( 1856- 1925) 500 Sartoris, Mary Theodosia ( May, Mrs Henry Evans Gordon, 1845- 1925) 326- 7 satires on jewellery 115- 16, 132, 143- 4, 147- 8, 162- 3, 200, 234, 415, 511 ( n. 2) Saulini, Luigi ( 1819- 83) 465, 467, 472- 80, 490, 501, 537 ( n. 6) Saulini, Tommaso ( 1793- 1864) 257, 465- 7,472- 80, 490, 537 ( n. 6) Sauvageot, Charles ( 1781- 1860) 362 Scandinavian revival jewellery 268, 378, 437- 43 Schaper, Hugo ( 1844- 1915) 372- 3 Scheid, Georg Adam 370 Schinkel, Karl Friedrich ( 1781- 1841) 332 Schliemann, Heinrich ( 1822- 90) 289, 302- 3, 376 influence of Troy discovery 529 ( n. 2) Schmidt, Wilhelm ( 1845- 1938) 431, 481 Schmidt & Nourick 481 Schongauer, Martin ( c. 1440/ 53- 91) 364, 497 Schreiber, Lady Charlotte ( néeBertie, 1812- 95; married firstly Sir John Guest) 322, 458, 491- 2 Scott, Sir George Gilbert ( 1811- 78) 413 Scott, Sir Henry 380 INDEX551