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© 2010 The Trustees of the British Museum Published in 2010 by The British Museum Press A division of The British Museum Company Ltd 38 Russell Square, London WC1B 3QQ www. britishmuseum. org Charlotte Gere and Judy Rudoe have asserted the right to be identified as the authors of this work ISBN 978 0 7141 2819 1 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Designed and typeset in Trajan and Berkeley Oldstyle by Price Watkins Design Printed and bound in Hong Kong by Printing Express Ltd Half- title page: Chimera brooch by E. Fontenay, c. 1870. Private collection ( see Fig. 426) Frontispiece: Portrait of Grace Rose, by Frederick Sandys, 1866. New Haven ( CT), Yale Center for British Art ( see Fig. 138) Title page: Camellia brooch, 1850- 60. British Museum ( see Fig. 132) Note to readers The captions to the illustrations indicate, where space has allowed, the role of the jeweller who signed the piece or whose name appears on the case. Some are manufacturing jewellers, such as Brogden, Giuliano, or Castellani, while others are retailers only and did not make the pieces they sold. Hancock and Harry Emanuel were both, in that they sold work made for them by others but also made their own. ' By' without any other qualification is used when the role of the jeweller is uncertain. Where the distinction is clear we have used ' made by' to mean made in the firm's own workshops, or ' retailed by' to mean that the piece was bought in from another manufacturer. The workings of the trade are exceedingly complex. No firm would undertake every one of the many specialized operations, such as diamond setting or the supply of jewellers ' findings' ( clasps, brooch pins etc). Even Brogden and Streeter, who advertised their manufacturing capacity, would have had recourse to these specialists. The authors and publisher acknowledge a generous grant towards the production of this book from The Isaacson- Draper Foundation, New York